After our second stop in Chiang Mai we went to Chiang Rai. Chiang Rai is mostly used as a base to cross the border to Laos or Myanmar and of cause the Golden Triangle. But the town itself is nice as well. In the center you can find not just one but two clocktowers, an old and a new one. The old one is very plain but the new one is quite the sight. It’s smaller and quieter than Chiang Mai but in my opinion the sights are just as interesting. There are several modern temples build by contemporary artists. Interestingly they all go by a different color which also dominated said building: Blue, black and white. Because they are situated both north and south of the city center we rented a scooter again. Also, there was a balloon festival happening we wanted to go to.
We started our tour north of Chiang Rai in the ‘Blue Temple’ or Wat Rong Seur Ten. The artist who designed this temple is a student of Chalermchai Kositpipat who is responsible for the ‘White Temple’. Mostly held in a very intensive blue there is delicate woodwork and wall paintings to be seen. While I really liked the color and the detailed woodwork, the wall paintings seemed a bit corny to me. The entrance is free and Chis and I decided to donate some money by buying some coconut – Butterfly pea flower ice cream which is consequently blue! It tasted really good.
Further north we went to Baan Dam, the ‘Black House’ which is not a single house but a whole complex designed by Thawan Duchanee. The houses’ architecture is inspired by the local historical style of buildings but are all made from a very dark brown or black wood. The houses and the park-like assembly were very good and felt a little mysterious and I enjoyed wandering around there. The decoration inside the houses was a little different from what we call normal. There were lots of whole crocodile skins on the floor or tables, seats and other furniture and stairs made from buffalo horn. Almost everything that’s not wood, is made from animal remains. It was a little weird but at the same time you could tell all of this is made intentional even though the purpose was not always clear to us.
The third color is found south of the city. We went to the ‘White Temple’ or Wat Rong Khun which is build and still not finished by Chalermchai Kositpipat who was a student of the Duchanee, the artist of Baan Dam. His work is very much different from his mentor’s work at first. It’s held in white and silver and reminded up more of something created by Disney or a famous Bavarian king. Looking closer one can find details connected to modern pop culture or discover some of the statues look rather demonic. Most of the site is free to enter, there is however, a fee for the main temple which we did not want to pay. We decided to donate some money by buying a metal leave where one can write a message and which will be hung from the colonnade’s ceiling.
From the temple we drove to Singha Park where Chiang Mai’s Annual Balloon Fiesta was held at the time. It was rather difficult to find information online and what was going on at what time. We only knew there must be Balloons and that there was going to be live music. As it turned out we arrived at the right time. A little on the earlier side but that gave us time to orient ourselves. There was already slow traffic going to the parc but it payed off having a motorbike… It appeared to be a big event with a large stage and lots of tables with chairs in front. Around the seating area the food stands where set up. To enter we had to pay 150 Baht each and had to have our temperature measured. The only disappointing thing was: No Balloons. But over time we learned that the Balloon events, it was actually a competition, was postponed because the wind was too strong. After a short while the teams were preparing their Balloons to be set up, outside of the event area by a pond. For the competition the pilots had to try to get items like balls to a certain mark swimming in the pond and would earn points. Once the wind had quieted down and apparently a signal had been given, all the Balloons were blown up. It was really quite the sight to see so many Balloons rise at one. Very colorful and impressive. There was no barrier holding the spectators back so you could wander between the Balloons. They set off quickly, crossing the pond, trying to hit their mark. Some teams carried them back for a second try. There was one balloon whose car was a few centimeters in the water. Twice. It was really a lot of fun to see.
After the Balloon competition there was a traditional Thai theater or dance. At first I had trouble understanding what was going on but after watching it a while it became clear that they were telling a story. There was certainly some fighting going on and I am pretty certain the Good won. The costumes were elaborate and gorgeous and the whole display was very well trained and presented. I was told that this performance is very rare but I am not sure if that is true in general or only by this specific group.
The area was now crowded with people drinking and eating. A Thai band was playing on the stage. Everybody was sitting on the tables and most had a tower of beer or a whole keg on the table. This seemed to be quite the event with families and large groups getting together. Curious to us was that almost everybody was sitting. When we got food and wanted to sit somewhere every seat was occupied by people who weren’t there. Throwing out a towel to save a seat is not only a German thing apparently.
Later in the evening the balloons came together and put up quite the show by illuminating them with their burner fires. Really nice. You could also go on a tethered (!) balloon ride which we didn’t do. After the ‘glowing’ Balloons we decided to leave because the first two bands had played music we didn’t like to much and we didn’t have high hopes for the last. Nevertheless, it was a great afternoon; a great end to an amazing day in Chiang Rai.
